in my last post i showed how to maneuver the zipper and lining and facings to make everything nice and tidy. i love insides i can be proud of! i'm a sewing nerd, i know...
so, let's go over the details, shall we? my material is a cotton rayon blend with a twill weave. while the material is medium weight, the weave is a little loose. to keep everything in place, i underlined the bodice in a purple cotton broadcloth. this really helped while sewing to keep everything lined up. the skirt is lined with the same material as my underlining.
|the innards: pre zipper and pre tacking down of facing.|
the facings for this dress are crazy unruly beasts!
as far as the pattern alterations went, i graded from a 0 at the shoulder out to a 4 at the waist. then i butchered the bodice to pieces (reducing it to a mere shadow of its former self) doing an sba like this.
on the back bodice piece, i cut the whole thing a size 0 (size 4 in length though) and reduced the waist dart so that my waist measurement was still the same as the size 4. i also did a slight swayback adjustment, removing a 1/4" wedge out of the back. nothing as major as i have seen in so many people's versions though!
i cut a size 4 skirt and added 1" above the hip as my waist to hip measurement is longer than average. this also helped bring the hem down to a better length for me.
this is really one of the best fitting dresses i've made. i could mess around a little with the shoulder because that is the one place where the fit isn't perfect. it's also something that i can alter without a major undoing of stitches.
now, as i mentioned on my macaron dress, i think i have weird shoulders. since this is just a cap sleeve it isn't bothersome, but i can tell that i may need more material to reach my shoulder in the back, and less toward the front. it's as if i need to rotate the armscythe forward half an inch or so. does this adjustment have a name? i really don't know.
i am so pleased with how this dress turned out. it was a snap to sew up, i only spent a couple days working on it. and by days, i mean naptimes and an hour or two in the evenings. so, don't let some of the mixed reviews on the fitting of this dress throw you off. give this one a try, it's perfect for spring. and yes, it's finally spring!