tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86794654918449205792023-11-16T08:17:20.999-05:00notes from a mad housewifea blog about sewing, cooking, baking and other domestic oddities...lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.comBlogger113125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-68075310547979971252013-03-15T15:40:00.001-04:002013-03-15T15:43:15.663-04:00i made the switch!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i have officially imported all my content to my wordpress account and have it looking quasi-organized. woot! so do me a favor and head on over there sometime and add me to your reader, assuming you still like me. :)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">FOLLOW ME HERE</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">all my old posts and everyone's comments were imported. all the "reply" comments are listed as their own comment, so now it looks as if i weirdly interjected thank you's and random advice, but i think i can live with that.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">for anyone who is wondering, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the switch was super easy! i'll have to manually set up my pages sections with my finished projects and such, and figure out how to put badges on my sidebar... so bear with me as i work out the kinks.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i also went over to <a href="http://www.bloglovin.com/" target="_blank">bloglovin</a> and imported all the blogs i had on google reader. that also took seconds once i found the "import" button, now prominently displayed. since g-reader is going the way of the dinosaur i didn't want to lose all the great blogs i love to follow.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">see you over at wordpress... <i>please, please, pretty please!!!</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-39886098563318188872013-03-14T11:10:00.002-04:002013-03-14T14:34:57.571-04:00i'm moving! blogspace, that is...<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">[UPDATE: easier than i thought! here's my new address... <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">come check it out and update your readers</a>!!!]</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">okay folks... today. <i>today!</i> i am moving over to wordpress, with or without a glass of wine in hand. it seems pretty easy to do, wish me luck! my blog address will be the same, just wordpress instead of blogger. so, if i stop showing up in your feed you'll know where to find me.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i have a slight lull in my sewing due to the fact that our heater went out over the past weekend and we've been heating our not so well insulated house with a few space heaters. now, my sewing room never had central heat (it's a weird poorly built addition to the house) so i've always had a space heater to keep it warm. but due to the lack-of-heat situation i have to sacrificed my sewing room heat in order to keep our actual living space warm-ish. it was okay over the last few days when our temps made it to 50s F, but today we're hovering in the 30s F and my hands are shivering... it may not be fixed until next week due to the freak snowstorm we had last week, dumping us with another 2 feet of snow. seriously. can we just get on to spring already? we are told that all those heater fixing people with the gas company are working in <i>high priority</i> regions where there was flooding and coastal erosion and such. what do i know? i just want heat!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">while my sewing room is a literal icebox i have started prep work on the <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/product/archer-button-up-shirt" target="_blank">grainline studio archer button up</a>. woot! i printed and taped last night, traced this morning and hope to cut my fabric today or tomorrow. that is if my hands are steady enough. this was probably the most <i>it really needs to be precise</i> .pdf pattern i've done. initially i had a bit of a problem, it seems as though my printer cuts off the top and bottom of each pattern page leaving me to guess exactly how to connect those sides of the page. i came up with a brilliant (if i do say so) solution.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">since the sides of each page printed fine, i simply traced the the square that connects each page to the next, then used it as a guide to line up the edges that didn't print. whew!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">alright folks... see you on the other side!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-24926812107132353672013-03-12T11:39:00.000-04:002013-03-12T13:52:42.900-04:00oh my darlin'... ranges!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">guys, i've been dying to share this dress with you! i have for ages drooled over the <a href="http://megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/darling-ranges-dress-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">darling range dresses</a> you all have made, but i'm cheap and it's hard for me to buy an expensive pattern and then still have to go buy fabric. i start adding up the costs in my head: pattern... fabric... lining... thread... buttons... then i go buy a simplicity pattern on the cheap and complain about how sucky it is. i really need to be convinced that a $20 pattern will get substantial use before i buy it. since i have so many different versions of this dress floating around in my head, i think it's worth the expense.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">that said, a while back julie over at <a href="http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/xcart/home.php" target="_blank">fabric mart</a> contacted me about doing a guest post on their blog—<a href="http://blog.fabricmartfabrics.com/" target="_blank">fabric mart fabricistas</a>—if they sent me some fabric. sign me up! she pointed me toward some new rayon fabrics and the darling ranges instantly came to mind. it was a match made in heaven if i do say so myself.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so here she is... new favorite dress! head on over to the <a href="http://blog.fabricmartfabrics.com/" target="_blank">fabric mart blog</a> to see my write up there, then come back and see how i made the bodice adjustments!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">much discussed over here is how wonky i am proportioned. i'm 5'8" which is certainly taller than average. in fact i have four sisters who are all 2-5" shorter than me. however, most of my height is in my legs making it so that i'm rather petite on top. i have a high bust, spindly arms, and have always had trouble finding necklines that aren't indecent and armholes that don't gape wide open. side boob is just not a classy look for me. i've finally come to the conclusion that, more often than not, i need to do a petite adjustment above the bust, then re-add the length under the bust. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">if you happen to need a similar adjustment, it's very easy to do. here's how...</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">pick a point above the bust (about 1/3 the way up the armscye) and fold out the amount you need to shorten by all the way around </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">(i took out 3/4")</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">obviously this is a not-to-scale drawing</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">then, smooth out the armscye curve and you're good to go!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">once i pinned out the room and tried the bodice back on it just fit and felt right; the neckline hit in a good place, the darts were in the right place, the arm hole wasn't gaping. success! a few tweaks here and there, okay a lot of tweaks... and i had a bodice i was happy with. i decided to leave this fitted but still everyday comfortable. i left off the back ties and added darts, and i lengthened the bodice to hit my high waist. mostly i'll wear the dress belted so i left about 2" of ease at the waist. i did add lining to the skirt portion; since the fabric has a white background i didn't think i could get away without it on a sunny day.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i am loving how this dress came out and i have ideas for a few more... sleeveless, short sleeved, scoop-necked... i really need to get more <a href="http://megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns" target="_blank">megan nielson patterns</a>!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-22461571482078472552013-03-11T12:05:00.002-04:002013-03-11T12:05:37.011-04:00moss mini AND dolman tee<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so i made a green corduroy skirt eons ago and never really liked it all that much. (i hesitate to link to it, but <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2011/11/corduroy-skirt-finished.html" target="_blank">here you go</a>) i think i wore it once, altered it a bit, then chucked it into the closet never to be seen again. until recently... i unearthed it from the bottom of a pile of sweaters and thought maybe i should do something with it. there was a decent amount of fabric and the <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/product/moss-mini-skirt" target="_blank">moss mini</a> from <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/" target="_blank">grainline studio</a> came to mind. i bought the pattern and lo and behold, it just fit! the original skirt had buttons down the front so i decided to keep them and not mess with a zipper.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i didn't bother to muslin this, i figured if it didn't fit i can call <i>this</i> my muslin and still be okay with that. happily it does fit well enough to be worn. yay! i measured a size 8 so that's what i cut. it still seems a little snug in the hips, but it <i>is</i> a mini skirt, so i think it's okay. the waist was a little gaping in the back so i took in the back yoke by a small amount to curve around le boo-tay.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">as you all know, this skirt lives up to it's name as a mini skirt. i cut the skirt to the longest length then made a faced hem with bias tape i reclaimed from the original skirt. also—polka dot pocket lining! </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the only other fitting tweak i need to work out is that space below the waist but above my hips. i'm not sure if i have proportionally low hips or what, but that area above the pocket is just kind of floating out there. i've had this problem before, so i guess i need to pay more attention to it. since i was using an existing button down skirt i couldn't sew the pocket lining into the fly as the pattern instructs and i think that would have helped to pull that part in closer to the body. no worries, there will be a <i>next time</i> with this pattern.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i had to piece the waistband because it was a hair too short... we'll just call it a <i>design feature</i>. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">oh, and i added back pockets and belt loops because i thought it needed them.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">fortunately the small fit issues i have don't render the skirt useless. i had some purple cotton lycra knit so i decided to make <a href="http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com/2012/08/free-sewing-pattern-dolman-sleeve-top.html" target="_blank">cation designs dolman tee</a>. i've seen these pop up over the past months and while i liked it, i wasn't sure if it was the right style for my figure. i always feel like my shoulders stick out funny and the lack of shoulder seam can exaggerate it. however, i am happy to say i think this top is not only supremely comfortable, but also flattering! </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">when i printed the pattern the scale was off (i got 3.5" for the 4" square) so i took an existing knit tee pattern and picked my size based off that. it all worked out and i think this is my new favorite tee! it was wicked fast to sew and would have been even faster to cut, however i had less than a yard of fabric so i had to do some fancy maneuvering. i cut the hem band in two pieces and had to cut the sleeve bands with the grain. i had plenty of stretch going both directions so it worked out fine. also i did a neck binding instead of band. i like the wide neck slouchy look for this.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so look at that, a whole outfit in one weekend! both projects were super fast and i love how they go together. can't wait to try more grainline patterns, i just bought fabric for an archer blouse. so excited for that one!!!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-13791259039702977762013-03-04T09:28:00.001-05:002013-03-04T09:28:19.978-05:00some bloggity business<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">there's been loads of discussion around the blogs about how much the blogger platform stinks. i feel as though i've been fighting with blogger since day one, whether it's about getting my posts formatted correctly, uploading pics, commenting (darn you captcha!), and just generally not working when i need it to. when i started this blog i wavered between blogger and word press and claimed my blog name at both spots. blogger won out because it seemed less confusing to set up and more customizable. basically i've regretted it ever since.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">my fist blog-posted renfrew! shameful it's<br />taken so long, but i figure everyone is sick<br />of this pattern by now.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so i've decided to switch over to word press at some point when i have time to deal with that and hopefully it won't be too traumatic. i am concerned that, because this is a picture heavy blog, that those might get lost. and that would be soul crushing.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this is a nice drape-y rayon with a subtle sheen.<br />not great for hiding the lumps and bumps, but<br />it's super soft, so i'll deal.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">regardless, i will switch and the switch will probably happen on a whim late some night after one too many glasses of wine... so if you wake up to some weird feed of mine in your reader, i'm apologizing now!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFF4G6NLGMZRKsnGbHPuJp4ulTqe7Vy4OSi4J-_Stnbt9lrUc5qz2VDJOLp3XTU_MHjIbPnLm5igRJOe1SfbpRtVKK6MjhSlaB75mrap85LLUo9Az5axRprsP_3DQBIKypGK5iQX_zw5f-/s1600/IMG_9678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFF4G6NLGMZRKsnGbHPuJp4ulTqe7Vy4OSi4J-_Stnbt9lrUc5qz2VDJOLp3XTU_MHjIbPnLm5igRJOe1SfbpRtVKK6MjhSlaB75mrap85LLUo9Az5axRprsP_3DQBIKypGK5iQX_zw5f-/s400/IMG_9678.JPG" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">paired with my thurlows... it was only right.<br />i left off the sleeve and hem bands and lengthened<br />the hem to compensate and just cut the sleeves<br />where i wanted them and twin needled the hems.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">also, </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'm just wondering what ya'll do with your pictures in general. i take what seems like a bazillion pics just to get one or two where i don't look like a complete doofus. i try to make sure and delete the pics off my computer that i will definitely never use, but sometimes i'm in a hurry and think i'll come back to it later. guess what. i never do. </span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the pattern's neck band was too long for this knit and it stuck out<br />all sorts of awkward. had to rip it out and redo. love that...<br />but now it's nice and profesh looking.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so now i have thousands of pictures of myself in iphoto, which makes me cringe every time i open the program because i HATE having my picture taken. i'm awkward, i don't photograph well, i'm super self-conscious, i don't know where to put my hands, ahhh!!!!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">BAM! hand-made outfit!<br /><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/02/thurlow-in-denim.html" target="_blank">pants</a><br /><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/09/knit-blazer-lovefest.html" target="_blank">blazer</a></span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">right </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now i have to upload them to picasa first in order to put them on the blog. but it... takes... forever... and they're really hard to organize. i use flicker occasionally but only have a few pics there. i haven't come up with a good way of storing my pics, but i really have no need to keep them for the long-term if they're on the blog, right? i just don't know! what do you guys do????</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span></div>
lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-63892485065306616572013-02-27T12:46:00.000-05:002013-02-27T12:46:01.856-05:00tiramisu success!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">thanks a million for all the helpful suggestions on my <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/02/i-need-opinions.html" target="_blank">plea for help</a> last week! i suppose i was having a mini sewing-related meltdown... i know you all are above such, yes? <i>no?!</i> ha! anyways, i really appreciate the feedback. seriously, you sewing peeps are the best.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">and, as if you didn't know... <i>photographing a black dress is super duper hard!!!</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so here's what i decided to do: even though my pattern printed off-scale at 7/8" for every 1" (i believe that's 12% smaller, fyi) i went with the size i measured (bodice 30 C). now, i'm not a C cup, but all the information i found led me to believe that i should go with my measurement and not my usual cup size. that said, i probably could have gone with a 30 B. for the midriff and skirt i chose the waist size 30 and cut the length one size up. i'm definitely taller than the target size. instead of sewing at the drafted 1/2" SA i serged most of my seams with a 3/8" SA. for reference, my measurements are as follows...</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">high: 32</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">full: 33.5</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">under: 30</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">waist: 29</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the only changes i made to the pattern itself were to eliminate the neckline and sleeve bands. i have nothing against the bands, but for this i wanted a slightly dressier look. i added 1/2" to the neckline to compensate for the bands, then serged clear elastic to the edge from the wrong side, then turned and topstitched the edge. i really like how this worked; it gave me a very fast clean finish. for the sleeve hem i turned it in 1/2" and hemmed before sewing up the side seams.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the bodice fit pretty well without too much fiddling. i didn't crossover the neckline as much as the pattern calls for (my CF notches are about 1" apart) because it looked so closed up on me. actually my only real disappointment with this pattern (which may not be the pattern's fault) is that the neckline is too small to lay flat around my neck. i could (and may) widen the neckline slightly to eliminate the wrinkling i'm getting, but i'm going to wear the dress a bit before i go in and perform surgery on it.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this pattern has you cut the entire bodice and skirt on the bias, but since i was using a solid color i decided to cut the bodice on the straight (placing the back piece on the fold to eliminate the back seam). based on everyone's suggestions i left the skirt bias cut. i'm not entirely convinced that cutting the skirt on the bias is necessary to get the nice drape since this <i>is</i> a knit, but i think in the end it helped save on fabric. i had two yards of this fabric which, after washing, was much, <i>much</i> less. i don't think i could have cut both skirt pieces and the back bodice on the fold.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">over-exposed pic to show detail</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i decided to leave off the pockets partially out of laziness, but mostly because the only things i stash in my pockets are kleenex, not good with black fabric; and my iphone, which would be too heavy and pull at the skirt funny. i do kind of wish i had a place to stash my hands though, i never know what to do with them when i'm not holding a child.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ditto</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i wish i could comment more on the actual pattern sizing, but i do know i would have ended up taking this dress in quite a bit. the pattern recommends sizing down for a snug fit and that is basically what my mis-printed pattern gave me. in fact, i think the printing mishap ended up saving me a lot of unpicking and resewing. so i guess that's a win!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">my final thoughts: i can really appreciate what <a href="http://3hourspast.com/" target="_blank">steph</a> is doing with <a href="http://sewingcake.com/" target="_blank">cake patterns</a>. the whole multi-sized bodice thing is a fantastic idea and i think she's really on to something. that said, i just don't feel the need to fiddle so much with the sizing on a knit pattern. there is a lot of ease built into this dress and i wonder if that just causes more problems than it solves. <i>however</i> i look forward to seeing how her business and patterns evolve; obviously this pattern has been a breakaway hit, and there is no doubt that i really, <i>really</i> love this dress! it checks all the boxes of wardrobe staple, versatile, comfortable, everyday wearable, works with a cardigan... i could go on. i do want to make a stripy version to take advantage of the cheveron effect of the skirt and bodice... in fact this was such a quick dress to sew up i have no doubt that i'll be making more!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-60064476453241287782013-02-21T13:56:00.003-05:002013-02-21T13:56:44.102-05:00i need opinions!!!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'm just about to start work on the tiramisu dress but first need to vent and also ask a few opinions...</span><div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so i have some black cotton lycra from <a href="http://girlcharlee.com/">girlcharlee.com</a> that i ordered with the intent of making a knit LBD. a while back an opportunity came up for some free tickets to attend the BSO. i ended up sending my husband because it was cold and i decided against wandering around the streets of boston late at night with two kids. i always get lost and the subway system confuses me... what can i say. i'm from the midwest—i <i>drive</i> places damnit. it also dawned on me that i really don't have anything appropriate to wear. i suddenly needed a black dress. i'm of an age where i should absolutely have a black dress, but sadly don't. so i took a gamble and ordered black knit fabric online and thank the heavens it is exactly the weight and drape i wanted.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i want to use the <a href="http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/clothing/tiramisu-knit-dress--us--cake-patterns/37194" target="_blank">tiramisu</a> pattern because it has that right mix of casual if you wear it one way, or dressy if you wear it another. i plan to eliminate the sleeve bands and just hem the sleeves, and will probably eliminate the neck bands in favor of serging some clear elastic to the inside, turning, then topstitching. i'm pretty sure i've seen this done with great results, though i'll test some scraps first just to make sure.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so here's my vent: i went with the .pdf version off craftsy partly to save money, and partly (mostly) because i'm impatient. i've done plenty of .pdf patterns so i know what i'm getting into there. i go to print the pattern and it's 65 pages long. what the <i>what?!</i> wow. that's a loooooot of pages. now i knew that there are multiple sizes that you customize based on upper bust and full bust measurements, but there's no good way to print only the bodice size you need.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now, i don't know a whole lot about putting together a .pdf pattern so i'm speaking only from the customer end here, but it would really have been helpful to separate the bodice sizes so you have the option to print only the size you need. i wasted so much paper. i also have a beef with the scaling. my 1" square comes out to 7/8". i had tested this with one page and worked out what percentage to print at, but for some reason when i went to print the entire pattern, it didn't scale. so now i'm stuck with 55 pattern pages that are the wrong scale. i felt so defeated before i even laid out my pages! it was just so much to dig through. basically i'm saying: <i>pay the extra $5 and get the paper pattern.</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i figured out that the off scale essentially makes my pattern one size smaller. she notes that for a snug fit to go down a size, so this should work out okay? my fabric is really stretchy, and i've seen people cut out loads of room from the side and under bust seams. the SA is 1/2" and i can sew it with 1/4" SA just for extra insurance. this sounds reasonable, right?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">okay, last question: the bodice and skirt is cut on the bias, presumably so that you can have fun with stripes. i would really prefer to eliminate the CB bodice seam and the CB and CF skirt seams and cut these pieces on the fold. since i'm using a solid, do i need to cut these pieces on the bias? i just don't see any obvious reason to. plus i only have 2 yds of fabric so i'm not sure i'll have quite enough for all the bias cutting.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">thoughts? lay those opinions on me!!!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span></div>
lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-66678144141381798282013-02-20T12:09:00.001-05:002013-02-20T12:09:31.846-05:00collar stay channel tutorial<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">one thing my husband likes on his dress shirts are channels for collar stays. it's pretty easy to figure out by looking at a dress shirt that already has this feature, but here you go anyways!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">[<i>sorry for the following pictures to be of such poor quality. not enough sunlight, having a difficult to photograph fabric, and this ungodly orange table that i sew on are all on my list of excuses. actually, i really love the orange table. in fact i painted it that color long before i ever knew it might serve as a background for photographs.</i>]</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">first cut two under collar pieces. if you don't have enough fabric to cut the second one in one piece, just cut out two halves; you really only need the outer thirds of this piece. take one of your under collar pieces and mark a line from the collar point angling up the direction you want the channel. then mark 1/4" on each side to give you a 1/2" wide channel. fold down the corner of the collar that attaches to the stand. as you do all this, make sure you check where the seam allowances will fall so that you keep the entire channel opening free from the collar stand once it is all sewn together. once you are confident you have this all worked out, trim away all but 1/2" of the folded under bit.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now you need to fill in the gap that you just folded over, so take the second under collar piece and position it under the first so that it fills in the gap. if you are not using an entire under collar and had to piece it, check the position against your pattern piece to make sure it all lines up correctly.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRpXbFtntkZ2d264SUKJTwjE4p1ZqEXXpIGMdnC-MAhJBGeDv22mlWzQ9SG1x2nUkcVvb3OcjQAHQLZXvPn1JiadfBzoe_fk9BrBUP3cx8JHDO-wGLA5MUPi3OH_PdS4rrNpvmpI1JZCi/s1600/IMG_9537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRpXbFtntkZ2d264SUKJTwjE4p1ZqEXXpIGMdnC-MAhJBGeDv22mlWzQ9SG1x2nUkcVvb3OcjQAHQLZXvPn1JiadfBzoe_fk9BrBUP3cx8JHDO-wGLA5MUPi3OH_PdS4rrNpvmpI1JZCi/s400/IMG_9537.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">pin it all in place then edge stitch turning when you get to the stay channel. do this on both sides of the channel. you can trim away what you don't need of the back layer so it only covers the channel, or you can leave the entire piece attached. if you do this, i would suggest trimming off the seam allowance to reduce bulk. depending on what you like to use for stabilizing the collar this under piece could take the place or add to whatever stabilization method you prefer. i didn't trim much at this point, but later i did trim some bulk out of the point. just something to watch for. after all that is done proceed as normal to construct your collar.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i also wanted to show you what a difference it made in my collar construction by cutting the under collar smaller and stretching it as i sewed. the collar naturally curves and ultimately gives you a smoother line. had i trimmed as much width from the under collar as i was supposed to, the curve would be even more pronounced.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i was impressed anyways.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-69415948016357749662013-02-17T13:10:00.001-05:002013-02-17T13:10:33.706-05:00mccalls 6044 version 3.0<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so last weekend we hunkered down for the</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>BLIZZARD OF 2013!!!</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">during which time not only was it difficult to leave the house, we were expressly forbidden to at risk of fine and/or imprisonment. not kidding! not that i had any intention of driving around in a blizzard, but there you have it. we got 2 feet of snow and literally had to dig our way out the front door.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so what's a girl to do while snow is falling at an alarming rate? why sew, of course!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxvIsPRoxN3quU8yCRIpD0u2zD1cqmYXeiUkqZ3sl09kvGoP1ZBlI0BJJI533JVeg7grZKKsw2b00n7kxmm9N8n2_4m8NxGkOXzpkQJ9K9QY1FKw0Nhg9UNtte8OZbVpXwEVNub7vp-DI/s1600/IMG_9545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxvIsPRoxN3quU8yCRIpD0u2zD1cqmYXeiUkqZ3sl09kvGoP1ZBlI0BJJI533JVeg7grZKKsw2b00n7kxmm9N8n2_4m8NxGkOXzpkQJ9K9QY1FKw0Nhg9UNtte8OZbVpXwEVNub7vp-DI/s400/IMG_9545.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i already had this dress shirt cut and fused and waiting for it's turn under my needle. after cutting the shirt i perused <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1361124260&sr=1-1&keywords=shirtmaking" target="_blank">david coffin's "shirtmaking"</a> and wanted to employ some of his techniques. while i didn't strictly adhere to his method on all points, i did pay close attention to how he does the shirt collar. while i haven't achieved perfection here, it was interesting to see how such small changes improved my collar attempt so dramatically! to me at least.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP4TdtB0Bg428cWBdGMuhgdwnZtGMzZiRT9b5sjupLp1X4X63CThkg3UmMqxZtQzGSK6cTpid1ViT9OK6zkDY5rP5Ds0goPykFE1GVUoAxBCWf-B6CWgbXJnhcBiP4eCFLuYUOSZfPp0Q/s1600/IMG_9548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP4TdtB0Bg428cWBdGMuhgdwnZtGMzZiRT9b5sjupLp1X4X63CThkg3UmMqxZtQzGSK6cTpid1ViT9OK6zkDY5rP5Ds0goPykFE1GVUoAxBCWf-B6CWgbXJnhcBiP4eCFLuYUOSZfPp0Q/s400/IMG_9548.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'm not going to detail a full rundown of his methods, mostly because he does such a great job of it in his book, but also because <i>duh!</i> he wrote a book and it's hardly fair for me to just put it all out there on the internet. if you're not interested in owning a copy, most likely you can find it at a library. my library has a great inter-library loan service so i can get virtually any book i need. that's how i tracked down this source, though i plan to buy a copy soon to have on hand.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVG1VS2BP4V9O5foSVZCjh_Xy6GNxtStpjWSbK-5nmnha-YXJT4BCYFiX3RfAyUlE9yMciHXGDikAGXeF5P_nNGVr-X8RlClABsdVQu4z25K3_LyrFqW_aWti4ZURF-KA3L3aWyrSNYXI/s1600/IMG_9561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVG1VS2BP4V9O5foSVZCjh_Xy6GNxtStpjWSbK-5nmnha-YXJT4BCYFiX3RfAyUlE9yMciHXGDikAGXeF5P_nNGVr-X8RlClABsdVQu4z25K3_LyrFqW_aWti4ZURF-KA3L3aWyrSNYXI/s400/IMG_9561.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'm just going to call that last buttonhole<br />stitched in green <i>my signature</i> okay?</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">to start, he gives you several different seam allowances to work with. he suggests 1/4" for most parts of the collar (except the edge of the collar that attaches to the stand—that you leave 5/8") which allows for more control and accuracy. i find 1/4" difficult to stitch because it falls under my presser foot, which i obviously can't see, so i went with a 3/8" SA.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">he also suggests trimming width off the under collar and inner collar stand, so the under or inner side of these pieces are 1/4"-1/2" smaller than their counterpart. i find it interesting that he has you stretch the smaller piece as you sew to fit the larger piece. what i have seen before, say in tailoring a coat or jacket, is to cut the outer pieces larger then ease them down to the smaller size. do you see the difference? it's subtle, but it really works well. when you let go, the collar just naturally curves itself! very cool. i was a bit nervous and didn't trim as much as he suggested so i still have a few wrinkles. next time i'll follow more closely for sure.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i always had issues getting the rounded edge at the front on the collar stand to look good. i could never figure out when to sew that little curved bit and thankfully, coffin address this very well. no more guessing for me! all in all, the collar on this shirt is much more crisp and formed than my previous attempts. i still need some work on my collar points. i may need to invest in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Golden-Hand-Ind-0857-Presser/dp/B003KWBWWK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1361124360&sr=8-7&keywords=point+turner" target="_blank">one of these</a>.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYHWS2PqOdcmQHN82vHJglFmJ7WJEhzMNArg_dsFG8eYrffTtYPVQw7cooFZRxGdMyXZ3WU-8Y-1LFilGFlkjuVT-qlo7uuMdQs_pRte0zKzkEf5B4VXHqG_EYhpShenaUelX3PXD5cTQ/s1600/IMG_9557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYHWS2PqOdcmQHN82vHJglFmJ7WJEhzMNArg_dsFG8eYrffTtYPVQw7cooFZRxGdMyXZ3WU-8Y-1LFilGFlkjuVT-qlo7uuMdQs_pRte0zKzkEf5B4VXHqG_EYhpShenaUelX3PXD5cTQ/s400/IMG_9557.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i hope to make up a "how-to" for the collar stay channel soon...</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'm still not great at flat felling. i had removed most of the ease in the sleeve cap because it's quite unnecessary here and makes felling even more difficult. i think with practice i'll get a little quicker at it, but i spent f-o-r-e-v-e-r putting those sleeves in and felling them. the side seams, by contrast went super fast. it's still tedious to get all the way up or down those sleeves, but using my new felling foot at least got my stitching far more even.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y44g9_VlODbVlastU7aEmxdo3jS5p8lF4B2Bial7BwIJxPpMjceegKShNqPi6390EcZcN-XDkSCUWxJkcwCSRtPewn_enXUR-PKsPT2cMOU6CJW0xt0QQnB9w8OsJWwkh4RolWStpUCP/s1600/IMG_9562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y44g9_VlODbVlastU7aEmxdo3jS5p8lF4B2Bial7BwIJxPpMjceegKShNqPi6390EcZcN-XDkSCUWxJkcwCSRtPewn_enXUR-PKsPT2cMOU6CJW0xt0QQnB9w8OsJWwkh4RolWStpUCP/s400/IMG_9562.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">inside felled armhole</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZGFTpCayFuWeRD9R_s54wZyVXLYBhzHaRWU8AKVrvwmYUl2hiN-g0if-Kt6UmDC0xaHuW4bF6SlwnKm00BZOckZTvdiRmBUdXjOu2PfFXlmnyjl267n8vcA2Me99XBxe_HvZjurwHFmgc/s1600/IMG_9563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZGFTpCayFuWeRD9R_s54wZyVXLYBhzHaRWU8AKVrvwmYUl2hiN-g0if-Kt6UmDC0xaHuW4bF6SlwnKm00BZOckZTvdiRmBUdXjOu2PfFXlmnyjl267n8vcA2Me99XBxe_HvZjurwHFmgc/s400/IMG_9563.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">inside felled sleeve seam</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">another thing i found interesting was how coffin recommended a very short stitch length. i had noticed while examining my husband's rtw shirts that the topstitching was done with a very short stitch, so i did this on the last shirt, but he suggests that you do all your construction with a much shorter stitch. his argument is that the shorter stitch uses more thread to go up and down with each stitch which enables the fabric to retain some of it's natural give. i noticed that i was getting slight puckering in my seams, but dialing down the tension a touch took care of that.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">there are still minor changes i'll make next time around: widening the button placket (coffin recommends 1 1/4", this one is 1"), turning the under button placket to the inside instead of the outside, widening the back pleat, etc. i do feel pretty good having made three dress shirts this year, and it's only mid-february! i know more will be on my plate before long, but these are a good start. actually, i wouldn't mind making one for myself. each time i make one i keep thinking, you know with leggings and a belt i think i could wear this... <i>focus lisa</i>, FOCUS!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-12364812029313428452013-02-07T10:44:00.002-05:002013-02-07T10:58:02.434-05:00thurlow in denim<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">for months i've wanted to make some <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/" target="_blank">thurlow</a> pants, and i finally got around to it! i went with a denim because i found some for a great price. basically (not including the pattern) these pants cost me less than $10. that's a definite win in my book!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i measure a straight size 6, but when i used this pattern before i went with a size 4. there is still plenty of room for these to be comfortable, in fact i've already spent two full days wearing them. i love this type of pant because i can look nice without being dressed up.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMAb8-zsrFC_lXPjtJVLJzDZ5byG08xk5VaSMEF0ic4GmxxV_Z-OqVTnzhwLjrCxQhJUFW1RknV1aCclhAtbZZp9fXE3lbFd4PRFrQLsB_LO8S-1iCTWdZSSwH-35N8LoyJftvj-g70gC/s1600/IMG_9509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMAb8-zsrFC_lXPjtJVLJzDZ5byG08xk5VaSMEF0ic4GmxxV_Z-OqVTnzhwLjrCxQhJUFW1RknV1aCclhAtbZZp9fXE3lbFd4PRFrQLsB_LO8S-1iCTWdZSSwH-35N8LoyJftvj-g70gC/s400/IMG_9509.JPG" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">it does feel weird cropping out my head<br />so i can properly show you my bum and<br />then posting it on the internet... but whatevs.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">any changes i made are subtle. i changed the order of construction slightly, using the method i learned from the <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/01/my-first-jean-like-pants.html" target="_blank">jalie jeans pattern</a>. it allows you to construct the fly without having the back of the pants attached yet. once the fly is constructed, and the back pieces are sewn together, you sew front to back by sewing the entire inseam and then the side seams. i really like this for a few reasons. first, you can topstitch the crotch flat, you can topstitch the inseam, and you can adjust the legs as needed to get the fit you want.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">my denim is a little heavy and bulky so i needed my seam allowances to be controlled as much as possible, hence all the topstitching. i was concerned that my topstitching would detract from the look, but you can barely see it because my fabric is so dark. fine by me!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i decided to go with a single inset welt for the back pockets. i felt the double welts were a little oversized and perhaps a touch low. i made the single welt where the top of the double welt would be, if that makes any sense. i used <a href="http://poppykettle.blogspot.com/2012/04/101-single-welt-pockets.html" target="_blank">poppykettle's fab tutorial</a> to make my pockets and they turned out perfect. i also added a button hole just as extra insurance against unsightly back pocket gaping.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">as i mentioned in my <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/02/its-not-just-you.html" target="_blank">last post</a>, i adjusted the fly extension piece so that my waistband would line up correctly and everything would be in it's proper place. i ended up trimming off the extra seam allowance in the back. as i said before, my denim is fairly heavy and it was just creating unnecessary bulk. i fit a straight size 4 so i think in the future i'll just trim the excess out to begin with.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">hammered in a shank button. p.s. the dritz jeans buttons suck<br />big time. gonna have to find a different brand, these are<br />nearly impossible to get in!</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i added 1" in length and they are just a touch long for wearing flats, but i figure they'll shrink up as they get washed. i can always adjust the length later as needed.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">as i've said before, this is a GREAT pattern. other than tweaking maybe the front crotch depth, i really have a good fit. hopefully i can get around to making another pair (or two or three or ten) because i could really use more pants!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">okay, if you don't hear from me for a while it's because i've been buried in snow. we have 18-30" (45-76 cm for you metric types) of the stuff coming our way tomorrow through saturday. <i>blizzard!</i> so, i'm off to stock the pantry...</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-90226064468107695962013-02-02T09:41:00.000-05:002013-02-02T09:41:53.049-05:00it's not just you<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">guys, i've done a lot of un-selfish sewing lately, so it was time to sneak in a piece for myself before starting another dress shirt. i decided to make some denim <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/" target="_blank">thurlows</a>. yeah, i blatantly copied not only the online sewing peeps who have made denim trousers, but even my own little sister who made a pair recently, sent me pics and generally rubbed it in my face that she made super awesome pants. really, they were so cute i just couldn't help myself anymore. i <i>had</i> to have my own. there's a fabric store nearby called <a href="http://sewfisticated.com/" target="_blank">sewfisticated</a> (don't you just adore the name?) and every time i go there they have loads of bargains. they always have a table full of denim for $2.50/yd, and on my last visit i just couldn't pass it up. the denim they had was a little heavier than i would have preferred, but i think it still works just fine.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now, i made thurlow shorts <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/07/yeah-real-shortspants-pattern.html" target="_blank">way back when</a> and when i did the fly, i noticed the fly extension seemed to not quite be in the right place. but i went along, leaving it as it was. then when it came time to put the waistband on, the waistband came up short. i assumed i just messed up somewhere. i made a quick fix, and all was good.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so this time around, i carefully followed the directions, and lo and behold—same problem. ah-ha! it wasn't me. it was <i>gasp</i> a flaw in the pattern! this time, i searched reviews because surely i wasn't the only one who came across this problem. nothing. then i asked my sister and <i>yes!</i> she too had the same thing happen to her. i have seen whisperings of waistbands coming up short, so i'm here to say: <i>it's not just you!</i> this time around, i decided to rip out all the stitching, take out the zip and start over. p.s. one of those little razor blades makes super fast work of stitch unpicking. a regular seam ripper would have taken me an hour; razor blade, less than two minutes. believe me, re-doing the zip was much less work than it sounds.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i know we all have a proclaimed love affair with sewaholic patterns, but for the sake of anyone making this pattern and having fly/waistband issues, i will stand here and be the one to let you know that there is indeed a teeny tiny mistake in either the fly extention piece or the directions. fortunately, it is a super easy fix.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">if you need what you are sewing to look exactly like the directions, trim 5/8" off the width of the fly extension when you go to finish the long edge (or trim it from the pattern piece to begin with). after, you can continue following the directions and illustrations as they are.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">please note that i reversed my fly to the<br />standard zip up with the right hand layout</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">if you are confident enough to have yours look slightly different, sew the zip at 5/8" in from the facing edge instead of lined up with it. then when you sew the zip and fly extension to the pant, line up the edge of the zip tape (instead of the edge of the facing) with the edge of the pant. i kind of like the facing to extend beyond the edge of the zip tape to minimize bulk, so that's what i did.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">all in all, it's not a big deal. i do wish sewaholic would put a little note amending the pattern either as an insert or on the site somewhere, especially since we're talking about the fly. many people are using this pattern as their first try at pants and we're all assuming that we have erred somewhere. i love sewaholic and tasia is an absolute dear who works very hard and delivers an outstanding product, but just a <em>teeny tiny</em> little amendment would be fab.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">again, my zip is reversed from how the pattern is written<br />that's just how i roll</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">that's my PSA for the day. carry on.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">—lisa g.</span></i>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-71929430816235100992013-01-30T09:55:00.000-05:002013-01-30T09:55:05.673-05:00my first jean-like pants<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i've made pants and shorts before, so i'm pretty comfortable with the whole process. still, i've put off making any actual jeans. but as with many of my sewing adventures, i try new stuff out on my kids first. i picked up this green stretch twill for pretty cheap and was dying to try out the famed <a href="http://www.jalie.com/jalie2908-women-s-stretch-jeans-sewing-pattern.html" target="_blank">jalie #2908</a>. if you don't know jalie patterns, they specialize in all things stretchy and active, and each pattern comes in approximately 5,987,423 sizes. since i've been into tracing patterns lately, i was okay with this.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i set off tracing each piece <i>suuuuuupeeeerrrrr</i> carefully. the pattern has 3/8" SA, so there isn't much room for error. overall the directions are very good and i didn't need many changes. she wanted a skinny pant so i narrowed the legs in for a custom fit. hey, every kid needs custom fit pants, <i>amiright?</i> i started out by cutting a straight leg so i could taper as needed. i ended up taking in the seams by about 3/8" below the hip, and 5/8" from the knee down.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">other changes were pretty minor. i added one of those little change pocket things, which i stitched onto the facing before assembling the front pockets. i made up a separate fly facing instead of the folded in variety, and cut a separate inner and outer waistband. i feel both of these are sturdier when cut separate instead of just folded. the pattern has a seam at the CB of the waistband, i'm not sure if this is just to save fabric or what. the waistband is a straight rectangle, so if/when i make her another pair i'll eliminate the back seam.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i topstitched throughout to mimic RTW and even added a regular jeans hammer it in shank button. i don't have pics of the shank button because initially i had sewn on a regular button because she was so eager to wear them and i hadn't bought a jeans button yet. the shank button makes all the difference in the world for that <i>real</i> look. plus you get to hammer stuff. which is fun. next time i think i'll try rivets too.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">she wanted a lightning bolt design for the back pocket because she is a huge fan of the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Percy-Jackson-Olympians-Paperback-Boxed/dp/1423113497/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1359556760&sr=1-2&keywords=percy+jackson+and+the+olympians+book+1" target="_blank">"percy jackson and the olympians"</a> series (one is entitled: "the lightning thief"), not to mention harry potter.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjzcsbGiyWp8W39s3oGB31BsYmC13L6iZwp2c_xafbDD8gG8nQSxg9Qei_1SmDVwsEa61MZXD2Tf4VkSAGo6qygzA0HALyH8ZEq0S7iG21SehDGLiQJvCMTBbMT_ubcKJ-V5CIgqNHcj5l/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjzcsbGiyWp8W39s3oGB31BsYmC13L6iZwp2c_xafbDD8gG8nQSxg9Qei_1SmDVwsEa61MZXD2Tf4VkSAGo6qygzA0HALyH8ZEq0S7iG21SehDGLiQJvCMTBbMT_ubcKJ-V5CIgqNHcj5l/s400/image.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i thought i would give you a comparison between these and a RTW pair. she usually wears an 8 slim, so i decided to make a size 7. in retrospect, i should have cut the waistband and length in size 8, then slimmed down to a 7. they're long enough for her, but an extra inch wouldn't have hurt!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so here they are next to a 7 slim skinny jean from old navy. it looks like the sizing would be very consistent with RTW, though the waist may be a tad snug by comparison.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirckWYHNv-P-GDY755W0P_QnJpe72nW3B3dVhzKFJ43egWaJgtFcoNfigr8DXlBVGUylkixNlQyX4kT3SbvrU0vzfSWwuxZ6a6WlHC94ef-D30NM0eskRI27PGAUtdXqgo519HsUii-Fte/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirckWYHNv-P-GDY755W0P_QnJpe72nW3B3dVhzKFJ43egWaJgtFcoNfigr8DXlBVGUylkixNlQyX4kT3SbvrU0vzfSWwuxZ6a6WlHC94ef-D30NM0eskRI27PGAUtdXqgo519HsUii-Fte/s400/image.jpg" width="323" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the only thing that really bugs me is the giant back pocket. see how much larger it is than the ON jean? HUGE! i didn't even think about this before stitching it on. i will definitely make a smaller pocket next time.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMnKvHKIv-HRTH41VPAxv3Er1-i01IPgCHr0pMIfPDNUCWKxaG6Uxkww8SxQxn4SIkgjTlxiZyf-HTe9o6-EpzXPodLA8FUqA5BHfZ3609MWK2ja09IFw0LodwBtrtij2GCS9Mw4NAqMt/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMnKvHKIv-HRTH41VPAxv3Er1-i01IPgCHr0pMIfPDNUCWKxaG6Uxkww8SxQxn4SIkgjTlxiZyf-HTe9o6-EpzXPodLA8FUqA5BHfZ3609MWK2ja09IFw0LodwBtrtij2GCS9Mw4NAqMt/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">after this i feel pretty confident to make some jean-like pants of my own. i'll want to alter some of the SA's for a proper flat fell in places, but overall this is a really nice pattern. call me crazy, but i've been oogling over all the floral/patterned skinny jeans for spring. it's hard to track down floral stretch twill in a pant weight, but i finally found some online at mood... if i feel daring enough, i'm tempted to make my own!</span><br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">—lisa g.</span></i>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-73674885040130274282013-01-27T18:15:00.003-05:002013-01-28T10:18:41.823-05:00mccalls 6044: version 2.0<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">it's tricky to get interesting-looking shots of an un-modeled men's white shirt (</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i should probably at the very lest get myself a nice hanger)</span> but here you go anyways. i finished this last week right before my husband had to take off for the weekend on business. to las vegas. wah-wah...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJHGNsRZed4HCcnG48P_I4Cs9bOa2NSIVYPCb9uvTkGbfCg5Q5YhoY_KWJXfXtJwWIoGGRJ6W6UNXU6ACYbK03950BM5zqCtXrfLxKUK-pFQ2qkbqYx4oOmdLJGFbBoljh2hNdW2dXssm/s1600/IMG_9423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJHGNsRZed4HCcnG48P_I4Cs9bOa2NSIVYPCb9uvTkGbfCg5Q5YhoY_KWJXfXtJwWIoGGRJ6W6UNXU6ACYbK03950BM5zqCtXrfLxKUK-pFQ2qkbqYx4oOmdLJGFbBoljh2hNdW2dXssm/s400/IMG_9423.JPG" width="285" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this is one of two shirts i cut out for my husband, this time dress shirts for work. there is a dive fabric shop nearby that has amazing deals and i picked up some white and light bluish grey shirting for $2.50/yd. since i'm still learning all the tricks i'm not ready to splurge on the $10-$20/yd quite yet.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i made the white shirt first with a couple fit and design alterations. i widened the neck by about 5/8". when i had him button the top button on his <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/01/menswear.html" target="_blank">first shirt</a>, it was definitely too small for tie-wearing. also, the sleeves were a touch long, so i shortened the sleeve by 1/2".</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIFWYXfdponvTV37BgezCrhLSY1XgnM6nGNH7W5B4K6N97oH6UaEhZYDDCnXe6d_8oxPFqgoHOq_VWSfickKiTIz9sQGBFaf-pp3Uc3ldEWfOrMiaVdjWZMwzPQ2Eykak1Qw_YAVyMz2t/s1600/IMG_9427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIFWYXfdponvTV37BgezCrhLSY1XgnM6nGNH7W5B4K6N97oH6UaEhZYDDCnXe6d_8oxPFqgoHOq_VWSfickKiTIz9sQGBFaf-pp3Uc3ldEWfOrMiaVdjWZMwzPQ2Eykak1Qw_YAVyMz2t/s400/IMG_9427.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">if you squint you can see<span style="font-size: x-small;"> the</span></span> collar<span style="font-size: x-small;">-stay channel i added</span></span> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">then i did the front placket different. i extended the center front of the shirt front so i could attach the placket at the edge then fold it onto the front, then top stitch.</span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">it's a small change, but it requires less blind precision and eliminates hand stitching the placket from the inside.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i went ahead and flat-felled the sleeve/shoulder seam as well as up the sides and down the sleeve. surprisingly not as hard as i thought it would be! i just ordered a felling foot to make this stitching a little more precise in the future though. it's damn near impossible to hide imperfect stitching on a light solid colored fabric, let me tell you. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-6PvNcukMaBn463Cq0i2GjkfR1oVzowNnLPG4p4shNMFcNuGq_YykMMAnSV_GKTm-jX-vIZH8uRQUeSBXRh0f622k4dsSAGMznbys63JV2krvZREcEbUu07ZGGn1w1-PVEoS0k6CyU2ze/s1600/IMG_9430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-6PvNcukMaBn463Cq0i2GjkfR1oVzowNnLPG4p4shNMFcNuGq_YykMMAnSV_GKTm-jX-vIZH8uRQUeSBXRh0f622k4dsSAGMznbys63JV2krvZREcEbUu07ZGGn1w1-PVEoS0k6CyU2ze/s400/IMG_9430.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i decided to track down the ultimate resource in shirtmaking, aptly titled <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1359328086&sr=1-1&keywords=shirtmaking" target="_blank">"shirtmaking", by david coffin</a>. since the husband has tasted the fruits of <i>custom clothing</i> there's just no going back. i've glanced through the book and there is so much information to absorb. he has great techniques for all the tricky bits and i will no doubt rely on this book heavily.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i had promised a sleeve placket tutorial to go with my pattern piece, but i made this one in the evening and had no adequate lighting. i'll make sure to do the next one during daylight hours for your benefit. it did turn out <i>rawther</i> well, i think.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoW5pmY8GS0Khw5bIVTbBv1UI9MR4AqB9lF-CK7YE0dK-c-OYFx7Mm90ACnFhnGj0HmkstlMLL3QU-EQGWu55skY-WYih-4NjBL5ejbr6tif_CVw3hFG-qWO5Px-ks7xgPg2iFakP396FP/s1600/IMG_9432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoW5pmY8GS0Khw5bIVTbBv1UI9MR4AqB9lF-CK7YE0dK-c-OYFx7Mm90ACnFhnGj0HmkstlMLL3QU-EQGWu55skY-WYih-4NjBL5ejbr6tif_CVw3hFG-qWO5Px-ks7xgPg2iFakP396FP/s400/IMG_9432.JPG" width="285" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">overall i'm pleased with how the shirt came out. the fabric weave is looser than a lot of shirting so i had some issues and struggles all throughout. the next one has a very tightly woven fabric so i think it will come together a bit easier. even though i have it cut out, fused and ready to go, i have another project i've already started: thurlow pants in denim! the shop that i picked up the shirting fabric at always seems to have a pile of denim for $2.50/yd and i finally picked some up. plus i have an unblogged pair of pants i made for my daughter... ack! it's only the end of january and i'm <i>already</i> getting behind in posting!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-84019059251245366272013-01-25T09:00:00.000-05:002013-01-25T09:00:18.328-05:00rayon bias facing: the "no swearing necessary" method<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">okay, you asked so i'll share...</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">if you've ever tried to use rayon bias tape for a facing, you'll know how tricky it is. it shifts, it frays, it's generally uncooperative. before my <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/01/gerties-portrait-blouse.html" target="_blank">portrait blouse</a>, i had done it twice: the first time was a bloody mess, the second time took for-ev-er! and still didn't look that great. so i was searching my pile of scraps for a lightweight cotton or basically anything that would work as bias facing. nothing. okay, fine. [deep breath] i'll use self fabric.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUyQfDiKEC9qBmou5gDk6S0Pg7-JzvRz3xBLHMXPjMToOvboJBG2r8tk_nQ82yPeHi0zxHY2S0uXc05QA2M-1IGHmroIZDxH0MET_GCu3sWSK003fpwtdo_HeF2hyphenhyphenvE7bKwppE0vsTbnyg/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUyQfDiKEC9qBmou5gDk6S0Pg7-JzvRz3xBLHMXPjMToOvboJBG2r8tk_nQ82yPeHi0zxHY2S0uXc05QA2M-1IGHmroIZDxH0MET_GCu3sWSK003fpwtdo_HeF2hyphenhyphenvE7bKwppE0vsTbnyg/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i didn't take pics when i constructed the blouse, but i used scraps to show you my method.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">leave the full 5/8" seam allowance on the neckline of the blouse and stay stitch at 1/2" (or just inside the SA) directionally from the shoulder down to center front, then shoulder to center back. make sure you overlap those last few stitches at CF and CB. stay stitching makes a world of difference, trust me!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6jDPiCnKp1tHU8BgShBsIOWn-Bz7pG13RQDuNNBQpvWpyfs1abQawRjWwOrKwFwSrhZjIC1MzR00ZjXIpRVefcdRi8KAYxOKnWgKP7xQJ_lCZlR5GssOBOUSRtt2Ake2XJ2tNZ4JgOQX/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6jDPiCnKp1tHU8BgShBsIOWn-Bz7pG13RQDuNNBQpvWpyfs1abQawRjWwOrKwFwSrhZjIC1MzR00ZjXIpRVefcdRi8KAYxOKnWgKP7xQJ_lCZlR5GssOBOUSRtt2Ake2XJ2tNZ4JgOQX/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">cut your bias tape to 1 1/4" in width, then serge one edge with 1/4" wide serging. if you are living in a cave and <i>don't</i> have a serger, take your bias tape and press one side in by 1/4".</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilwwvE2971AWQ6TYhrDzXStGJJlNCzR337mcQDuHPd-QQRjG2YiSoZqjfqMVMCiyeKmBZSXRIz5-iSmCYIzpzGgC3rTzM9YgZ56V_sjOJqzHNXeTMF4XiMsdnfM-PiglAmSgDiUTiEF49G/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilwwvE2971AWQ6TYhrDzXStGJJlNCzR337mcQDuHPd-QQRjG2YiSoZqjfqMVMCiyeKmBZSXRIz5-iSmCYIzpzGgC3rTzM9YgZ56V_sjOJqzHNXeTMF4XiMsdnfM-PiglAmSgDiUTiEF49G/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">line up the edge of the blouse with the edge of the non-serged (or pressed) edge of bias tape and sew at 5/8". don't bother pinning the bias tape all the way around first, just go slow and keep adjusting the bias tape as you go around curves. don't stretch the bias tape or you will end up with a puckered seam.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtJ-L7Fl5q6W1pAjjKnW4yAw8U17nvZTKR6beawJQWUZc_THUpr3PYVOK7I6ppHjNyLViGr1gn1LH_e_5uNcSJL8q_L4cqrGwGhsnTa8V8o5hVhE0p2S9_1je8EkU2ZqeGZj6ZDSYb62s/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtJ-L7Fl5q6W1pAjjKnW4yAw8U17nvZTKR6beawJQWUZc_THUpr3PYVOK7I6ppHjNyLViGr1gn1LH_e_5uNcSJL8q_L4cqrGwGhsnTa8V8o5hVhE0p2S9_1je8EkU2ZqeGZj6ZDSYb62s/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">once it is attached, trim the seam allowances down to 1/4".</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvltLPc1JCXZ9APThkd9ID5-QsppKWsS1-Ha0u7DR3hRYrVHsil3yJkciaHTq2xq9tCJlUoQTJCEdk0wduWgyjKZ60NUr6LS0cI-LDpLhA14hyphenhyphen-UV2c11JDYM1Wto_hYhGlaAA6Q5g84fp/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvltLPc1JCXZ9APThkd9ID5-QsppKWsS1-Ha0u7DR3hRYrVHsil3yJkciaHTq2xq9tCJlUoQTJCEdk0wduWgyjKZ60NUr6LS0cI-LDpLhA14hyphenhyphen-UV2c11JDYM1Wto_hYhGlaAA6Q5g84fp/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">press the seam <i>flat first</i> in order to shrink back any stretching that may have occurred and to eliminate any wavy-ness at the seam.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79WEwroj7ZEI7nv6cZAA7lirknh8WWQC9NUD8ddk6zL3wu6bGCn-3T_sAlLXSw3PjA-1_XgbHRAJXHWG6nHIf8NuYHGp4YyHRY7G_rOwf9iQZTNyQXEgOf7BAX_ZTuNCO8LRAGA2VssSf/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79WEwroj7ZEI7nv6cZAA7lirknh8WWQC9NUD8ddk6zL3wu6bGCn-3T_sAlLXSw3PjA-1_XgbHRAJXHWG6nHIf8NuYHGp4YyHRY7G_rOwf9iQZTNyQXEgOf7BAX_ZTuNCO8LRAGA2VssSf/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now lift the bias tape out flat and press the seam <i>open</i> from both sides. this will give you an good clean edge.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">press in the serged edge of the bias tape using the serging as a guide, or re-press the 1/4". seriously though, get a serger.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now turn the bias facing into place and press. pin as little as possible perpendicular to the bias tape. excessive pinning or pinning parallel to the bias tape can distort the seam and if you have adequately pressed along the way, you won't need many pins.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqQGTVBpj2FVB02cUWVWW2xG01IRKyVdwWHrUaNxKF18sYo8k1k4JANS1RDInO0X_F2xq5oOc_AcQyUgeLAvkKLK_8uaU3ljM1sgJnm-Bw0CrGYtluwhy3VAgUk7Yo2xQUWss73JhLk6g/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqQGTVBpj2FVB02cUWVWW2xG01IRKyVdwWHrUaNxKF18sYo8k1k4JANS1RDInO0X_F2xq5oOc_AcQyUgeLAvkKLK_8uaU3ljM1sgJnm-Bw0CrGYtluwhy3VAgUk7Yo2xQUWss73JhLk6g/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">finally, topstitch at a scant 1/4". i find that if i move my needle to the left position i can get 1/4" by lining up the right edge with the edge of the opening on my presser foot. i tried using my 1/4" piecing foot as a guide, but it was just a smidge too wide.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzmcVfndqtv6QlNg-3vACLr94utbFrCPDp7709jag2u1o7zE4ic4EjS8pvkTd4FCIMc7IuroN8XauB1gzMDVtWXzzx9qsEY-QkLG6HMD6o7qxij0Nm2cJfp7qlncfh1y8Apl2WmlgunlA_/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzmcVfndqtv6QlNg-3vACLr94utbFrCPDp7709jag2u1o7zE4ic4EjS8pvkTd4FCIMc7IuroN8XauB1gzMDVtWXzzx9qsEY-QkLG6HMD6o7qxij0Nm2cJfp7qlncfh1y8Apl2WmlgunlA_/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">now you have a perfectly bias-faced edge!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_VepVBSrw-g7a0LkCNXqo5agiYfhDvqKlUxZT3nwnFpZKQjbnT5b53EhS-13cpgiDK1GKAhiSxCy7ScT4_1CEpGJafiljqxa8ebHvZyKAjXlHi0YG8DOnWzEKCI8_lcokETT2V7qYoRJ/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_VepVBSrw-g7a0LkCNXqo5agiYfhDvqKlUxZT3nwnFpZKQjbnT5b53EhS-13cpgiDK1GKAhiSxCy7ScT4_1CEpGJafiljqxa8ebHvZyKAjXlHi0YG8DOnWzEKCI8_lcokETT2V7qYoRJ/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxI9uZ-SpFPGR-9icFMB1cmnxwQ7zSRh4VzhK6vLddVWQEjnf9NcqyHE3IM4gHgXN8E44hQsZdzCaH3Z3K1j540scvTVg2dQogtbAN6OAMd1vO7AKBqqmnpA-riGFWXoPRwGnIVb8vhvRK/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxI9uZ-SpFPGR-9icFMB1cmnxwQ7zSRh4VzhK6vLddVWQEjnf9NcqyHE3IM4gHgXN8E44hQsZdzCaH3Z3K1j540scvTVg2dQogtbAN6OAMd1vO7AKBqqmnpA-riGFWXoPRwGnIVb8vhvRK/s400/image.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this may seem like a lot of little steps that take too long, but in reality it goes very fast. if you half-ass or skip any of the pressing steps, it will take much longer and not look as nice. true story.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-30430958991606889432013-01-19T12:14:00.000-05:002013-01-25T09:01:42.019-05:00gertie's portrait blouse<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">many of you no doubt have <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Gerties-Book-Better-Sewing-Couture-Style/dp/1584799919/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358615186&sr=8-1&keywords=gerties+new+book+for+better+sewing" target="_blank">gertie's new book</a> laying around. i received a copy for my birthday back in november and immediately devoured every bit of information she had to offer. now, as i've <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/01/polka-dots.html" target="_blank">mentioned before</a>, i'm not much into wearing the vintage inspired garments (though i do love to oogle at them), nor am i much into the hand sewing when i think a machine can do it better. nevertheless, i love many of the patterns included in her book and still enjoy reading and learning the vintage techniques. i may not use them much, i can certainly appreciate them.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJj6Fp8c5dTC2DsxHVXAWSgqaw0z_K8b8YnTqP_oMY-SROT1nX2HcN1pAkTGN3QioKK8ZODLOaaeXrvsI2_nUzMUTXV17d0TjAJ_olwQ3rCWrK2ln4wiFHN_aAfWybZiLSwTLsROt5m6Z/s1600/IMG_9364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJj6Fp8c5dTC2DsxHVXAWSgqaw0z_K8b8YnTqP_oMY-SROT1nX2HcN1pAkTGN3QioKK8ZODLOaaeXrvsI2_nUzMUTXV17d0TjAJ_olwQ3rCWrK2ln4wiFHN_aAfWybZiLSwTLsROt5m6Z/s400/IMG_9364.JPG" width="285" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i have a distinct lack of <i>nice tops</i> in my wardrobe so i thought i would try out the portrait blouse with a beautiful piece of rayon challis i picked up (it's from the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">van gogh collection by free spirit</span> fabrics). now, i have an unwarranted disdain for shirts that require zippers in them. just a personal preference, but there you have it. i decided to eliminate the tucks so i could slip the blouse on and off, but to retain the waist shaping, i added two rows of shirring. i also added 3" in length to the blouse since i will mostly wear it with jeans and not tucked into a high waisted skirt.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1P_1a4GLCrffLqmfBQu_pI4_letLhNdSbbeCKULUycReotb3mVoDa7eZ-S1AJfhEjxOWskIcWY6MQ_Tx1isrpDe7jR0M9r6T73W2dc5vMHtzC2J9Fvlv2RjROS3zZlQOU9wr01Vq0LPuZ/s1600/IMG_9369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1P_1a4GLCrffLqmfBQu_pI4_letLhNdSbbeCKULUycReotb3mVoDa7eZ-S1AJfhEjxOWskIcWY6MQ_Tx1isrpDe7jR0M9r6T73W2dc5vMHtzC2J9Fvlv2RjROS3zZlQOU9wr01Vq0LPuZ/s400/IMG_9369.JPG" width="285" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">before i started i checked out some reviews on the pattern, and there were a few complaints about the difficulty in hemming the sleeve. the instructions have you sew up the sides, then hem the sleeve by turning and stitching. now, the edge of the fabric will be much shorter than the line where you end up stitching. i decided to alter the pattern slightly and add extra fabric to the edge of the sleeve opening, then hem sleeve before sewing the side seam.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZ5adgU7Z0edd5ZV-TmMQEe1e5Mwdt28PEh2KC47aS53v9ZiB7kQYeW-U_QFsoinMTsU_47GdVrrKwjHwoJJ299vKK4Pnir9aLnFneRAaT0OWQs9khe3j42XRfVeyi1uyZwFjrvraWMky/s1600/IMG_9326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZ5adgU7Z0edd5ZV-TmMQEe1e5Mwdt28PEh2KC47aS53v9ZiB7kQYeW-U_QFsoinMTsU_47GdVrrKwjHwoJJ299vKK4Pnir9aLnFneRAaT0OWQs9khe3j42XRfVeyi1uyZwFjrvraWMky/s400/IMG_9326.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">that little triangle of fabric makes all the<br />difference in hemming the sleeve easily!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">here's what i did:</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i ran a line of hand stitching along the 5/8" mark where the sleeve is to be hemmed, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">then i pressed along this line.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2pLf6ZZrCLw81P3zi2-d1bOFcHXOVICc3TNVxlyWjExB92gfS3NQVzSCMsuLqZqRqEqpVbvgfAzxo-Yr_FgPlMq7BpdkboIvOp6JRjKsKr1ZplII8fkDch8zeCA-tuusOQbV9NMLgyfS/s1600/IMG_9329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2pLf6ZZrCLw81P3zi2-d1bOFcHXOVICc3TNVxlyWjExB92gfS3NQVzSCMsuLqZqRqEqpVbvgfAzxo-Yr_FgPlMq7BpdkboIvOp6JRjKsKr1ZplII8fkDch8zeCA-tuusOQbV9NMLgyfS/s400/IMG_9329.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">next i ever so slightly stretched the edge of the fabric around the underarm curve so it would turn in nicely. do be careful that you only stretch at the very edge and not further in! the actual pressed hemline must stay intact.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdw4ObwtohVI2OoFr2aZhVOxl2T7QVaGwrATT6i-J6PThOGBw4juYzZj5vh9BP5QdYzFfvLF3ogg7LmqeEv1cHIOIv__juH52FG2oJDDO85a9vF6EoBqUSSiPoCgtA2icnakx0jVhekvop/s1600/IMG_9330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdw4ObwtohVI2OoFr2aZhVOxl2T7QVaGwrATT6i-J6PThOGBw4juYzZj5vh9BP5QdYzFfvLF3ogg7LmqeEv1cHIOIv__juH52FG2oJDDO85a9vF6EoBqUSSiPoCgtA2icnakx0jVhekvop/s400/IMG_9330.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i serged the edge with 1/4" of stitching, then using the serged edge as a guide, i pressed it in and folded the sleeve hem in place and pinned.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">then i was able to easily stitch at 1/4" and remove the line of basting.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">when i went to sew up the side seams, i simply tacked the seam allowance back right under the arm.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i managed to bias face the neckline in self fabric <i>without swearing once!</i> if you've ever tried to use rayon challis as bias facing or binding you know what i'm talking about. i turned a 1" hem at the bottom, then added a tiny pocket just for fun.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this turned out to be a great top i can wear layered with cardigans for now while the weather is cold. it works with jeans, but would also be cute with a pencil skirt and belted.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i love the funky fabric i choose. these are my favorite shades of pink, and it works great as a blouse. i haven't seen many reviews of this top yet, but i can see it being a very versatile pattern. i would like to try it out with the tucks next time and maybe a button closure down the front to avoid the whole zipper thing.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">as far as sizing, i made a 4 on top then graded out to a 6 at the waist, then added 3" in length. i think i have a slightly elongated torso (but a high waist), so definitely check the length before you make this up. again, if it were always tucked into an at-waist or higher skirt, you'd probably be fine. the bust darts could be moved up 1/2-3/4", but this is a typical alteration for me. overall, this patten is a winner—it's quick to make up and is virtually a blank canvas for whatever your need it to be!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">UPDATE: tutorial <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/01/rayon-bias-facing-no-swearing-necessary.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> for the rayon bias facing</span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-42465124050469350542013-01-17T13:50:00.000-05:002013-01-17T13:50:35.174-05:00just a quick note!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">first off, thanks a million to everyone who voted for my project over on pattern review. i didn't get first place, <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1519600#.UPWXOvLFlSk" target="_blank">but i did come in second</a>! and second place still gets a prize. woooo!</span><br />
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<a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1519600#.UPR2bPLFlSk" target="_blank" title="Read more about this contest"><img alt="Sewing For Children" border="0" src="http://images.patternreview.com/siteimages/contest/2012/sewingforchildren_iwon_200px.png" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">also, i am rearranging the page links on my header and adding some content. mostly i'm categorizing my FO pics by year with links to the blog posts. i also added a pattern page where i have the one piece button placket i drafted for my <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2013/01/menswear.html" target="_blank">husband's button down shirt</a>. i don't have instructions up yet, but i'll get there (i have fabric for two business shirts that i'll start shortly so i'll make a full on step by step with pictures). in the meantime, there are other tutorials out on the interwebs and in sewing books. i know my whole layout isn't super-slick, but it'll have to do!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">thanks again for the votes!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-10990902788549983092013-01-13T17:21:00.002-05:002013-01-25T09:24:57.937-05:00menswear!!!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">finally, <i>finally</i>! the lovely guy who supports my <strike>addiction</strike>, <strike>obsession</strike>, <i>useful skill</i> of sewing FINALLY has his own garment to show for it. i should have done this ages ago, but... well... i don't really have a legit excuse.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i picked up some plaid shirting from <a href="http://fabric.com/">fabric.com</a> and used <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6044-products-10742.php?page_id=103&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">mccalls 6044</a>, which i picked up for $1 at joanns. i mentioned in my last post that i had a laundry list of gripes about this pattern, but upon further reflection i'll just call these "changes" and QUIT COMPLAINING. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">overall, this is a decent pattern. the fit for my husband is an unaltered, straight out of the envelope size small, and it's basically perfect. (to all of us who do <i>extensive</i> alterations on patterns to get a decent fit... <i>I KNOW!</i> so not fair.) and it's not that he doesn't fit a standard RTW size, but he's small-framed and those sizes aren't heavily stocked. ultimately i want this pattern to serve as a business shirt that i can make over and over whenever he needs a new one. right now he needs about ten. i went to his closet, checked out all the details on his RTW, and here is is what i changed.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i drafted a back yoke piece that was straight across the back (instead of the western style—though i love me a good western shirt) and did the whole two piece yoke sandwich thingie (or "burrito" as described by <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2011/02/mens-shirt-sew-along-12-new-collar-for.html" target="_blank">peter at MPB</a>).</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">then i added 1" in width to the back piece so i could add pleats. his casual shirts have two pleats out toward the shoulder and that's what i did here. his dress shirts have a single larger pleat in the middle, so i can easily change where i pleat the back piece as needed.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">for the long sleeve version in this pattern, there are two pieces to the sleeve. typically there is a button placket at the cuff, but to get around doing a regulation placket, you are instructed to turn the SA's in and topstitch. eh. not gonna cut it for me. all i had to do was lay the sleeve pieces together along the seam line and cut it as one. but, then i had to figure out and draft the button placket. i had instructions on how to sew it in a book, and after a bit of puzzling i worked out the dimensions and drafted my own. if anyone is interested in having this pattern piece, i plan to create a .pdf with instructions at some point. i measured the plackets of his existing shirts so what i have is a pretty standard size, though it could be customized according to preference.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i didn't flat-fell the seams on this one, though i plan to for future makes. i did serge and topstitch for a faux flat-fell. i set the sleeves in flat, so topstitching the side seam and down the arm was something of a challenge. it was like sewing in a tunnel. not sure if i'll be skilled enough to flat-fell it this way... if anyone has tips for me on how to do this, please speak up! i'm a complete newbie on this one.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i bought a 1/4" piecing foot for quilt making (i have grand plans to use up my leftover fabric scraps and turn them into my very first quilt), but i found it came very much in handy as a guide for topstitching, fancy that.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the only thing i plan to change for future shirts will be how the front button placket is done. it's fine as writ, but it requires a bit of lining up so that the inside and outside edges line up perfectly when topstitched. there's an easier way that minimizes both bulk and room for error. next time i make a shirt (and i'll be fabric shopping for white shirting this week—wish me luck!) i'll elaborate and show how it's done.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so what did i learn? the button down men's shirt is not to be feared ladies! it took a little more of my attention since the process was not my normal autopilot dress or tee shirt, but difficult? not really. okay, the collar can go very wrong <i>very fast</i>, but other than that, not difficult. you will see more of these from me. and maybe even one<i> for</i> me if i ever get around to it.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so there.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>i did it.</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I SEWED MENSWEAR!!!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">UPDATE: <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/p/downloads.html" target="_blank">click here</a> for the sleeve placket template</span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-57504995539557866872013-01-09T12:42:00.002-05:002013-01-09T12:42:58.513-05:00sewing in 2013<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i've just finished a button down shirt for the hubbs (mr. housewife?). yeah, it's about time i begun re-working his closet. most of what he owns is either ill-fitting or worn down and threadbare. i resisted for a long time because i feel like men's clothing demands a higher level of technical skill than women's clothing. even though my sewing isn't perfect, i think it's good enough to dive in and give it a shot.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i started tracing off <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6044-products-10742.php?page_id=103&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">mccalls 6044</a>, and as i went along i began my usual laundry list of gripes about the pattern:</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>faux back yoke!</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>no sleeve placket!</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>two piece sleeve?</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>no pleats on the back piece!</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>why are they skimping on these details? why? WHY!</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i paid $1 for this pattern.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">are the lack of "real" details in the big 4 our own fault? we're so accustomed, at least here in the US, to buying cheap patterns that perhaps it's just a vicious cycle. initially i thought the dumbed-down patterns were the pattern companies' response to the fact that most people don't know how to sew (therefore requiring simplified patterns), and most (i think) sew as a hobby, not out of necessity. yet, i can't help but think our reluctance to pay full price for patterns is also a factor. it does take extra work to make those extra pieces. i know, because i do it regularly.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so all this brings me back to my plans and goals for 2013.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>first</b>, buy more expensive patterns. we don't have a lot of money to throw around, and these days sewing is more of a necessity than just a diversion. i'm growing far more averse to buying cheap clothes that wear out and were potentially made under unethical conditions. did you hear about <a href="http://www.economist.com/blogs/banyan/2012/12/garment-factory-fires" target="_blank">this fire</a> a while back? i only came across the story by chance one day, it certainly didn't make many headlines here. at this point, we simply can't afford clothes that i can trust are ethically made, even with a "buy less/buy better" mentality. but, i can make it a point to spent a few extra bucks on nice patterns, especially those that will get multiple uses. this doesn't mean i won't buy big 4, i just need to complain less when i have to draft pieces to get the look i want. you get what you pay for and it's high time i accept it.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>secondly</b>, make men's clothing. as i stated before, his closet could really use a re-vamp. the button down shirt is a great place to start, but t-shirts, pants, and outerwear are also on the list. (i stated non-specific menswear over on <a href="http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/put-your-money-where-your-mouth-is/" target="_blank">dymt's re-sew-lution jar</a> post. doesn't she have the greatest ideas?)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>thirdly</b>, i'll continue to beef up my staples. my every day life is pretty casual and involves running kids here and there, the occasional playdate, volunteering at their school, sitting on the floor doing puzzles, snuggling with them for story time, and the like. i have a dreadful lack of appropriate clothing for these sorts of activities, so pants are on the list as well as tops, and probably a jacket or two. <i><a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/product/1103-minoru-jacket" target="_blank">minoru</a>! <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/product/1205-cordova-jacket" target="_blank">cordova</a>! i'm looking at yooouuu!!!</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>lastly</b>, i need to buckle down and sew more kidswear. it's hard for me to spend $8 or $10 on a pair of leggings or a t-shirt when i know i can make two or three out of a $5/yd piece of knit fabric.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">okay, there it is: my plan for the year and what you can expect to see on the blog. i've enjoyed reading everyone's goals, and i see many people are on the "beef up the staples" bandwagon. i know that doesn't satisfy the sewing itch for everyone, but i really do find this sort of thing fun. it is completely satisfying to reach in my closet and pull out a knit top that i've made or grab my hand made winter coat as i run out the door. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'll be back with a real post on the afore-mentioned button down shirt once i can sneak in some pics. in the meantime, i have a portrait blouse from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Gerties-Book-Better-Sewing-Couture-Style/dp/1584799919/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357752456&sr=8-1&keywords=gertie%27s+new+book+for+better+sewing" target="_blank">gertie's book</a> awaiting my finishing touches... here's to an amazing 2013!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-83594939685585382582013-01-08T09:25:00.000-05:002013-01-08T09:25:26.505-05:00what i did in 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so 2012 was actually a pretty big sewing year for me. i wasn't going to bother with my final thoughts, but i realized i never posted official pics of my biggest project to date. namely, my sister's wedding dress. in my defense, i only got the "official pics" back in november. (original posts: <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/06/flower-girl-chloe-dress.html" target="_blank">flower girl</a>, <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/06/wedding-dress-is-finished.html" target="_blank">wedding dress</a>, <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/06/yes-this-is-bridesmaid-dress.html" target="_blank">bridesmaid</a>)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">if you're interested, there are many more pics over on the <a href="http://www.zaophotographyblog.com/archives/2012/08/" target="_blank">photographer's blog</a> (post labeled tom + rebecca).</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">in 2012 i ventured into outerwear. i am so very pleased with my results on this front, and i'm itching to make more!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPsx14mTMtfN2XVAf0O5PIh4gTsQKzDlJ6Atk9ZTyXpV1GzmLduV9xdSRJhEIJtUOLaBmczKnLhnBnd2o7t_5rWUjaUyI6Tg5N82N3gf810rQcsHE0Q0R0iC_gXBtUwvSR38LzRDco1AA0/s1600/IMG_7264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPsx14mTMtfN2XVAf0O5PIh4gTsQKzDlJ6Atk9ZTyXpV1GzmLduV9xdSRJhEIJtUOLaBmczKnLhnBnd2o7t_5rWUjaUyI6Tg5N82N3gf810rQcsHE0Q0R0iC_gXBtUwvSR38LzRDco1AA0/s400/IMG_7264.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/06/easter-seersucker-suit.html" target="_blank">seersucker suit</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLg8RqSiqmH3H7mvZhrAFSE1fCZOhcCquZARKr5IChuxYMm-V2WQGDJ2_AGrkz0k6X3Z0FtosikypIvFl8MIkmrm0Fe1OYcmMVgqJ8qIXrApZ4d1c_b-yAVo_G9Gm27mXiDbO28hF297k2/s1600/IMG_8289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLg8RqSiqmH3H7mvZhrAFSE1fCZOhcCquZARKr5IChuxYMm-V2WQGDJ2_AGrkz0k6X3Z0FtosikypIvFl8MIkmrm0Fe1OYcmMVgqJ8qIXrApZ4d1c_b-yAVo_G9Gm27mXiDbO28hF297k2/s400/IMG_8289.JPG" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/09/knit-blazer-lovefest.html" target="_blank">knit blazer</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgjhArFu3fY1lKvRmnn9it1_8gu_g4QJ6d6-m6ayYYWj5-YnY5QutlMpIuom1RsFcZvFGeet0KYOmAbzIMzS6KksDkf3w6ddBbE_DGSqlFSkldmvfK6ufeThXIsE5WQI-TUa2F35_N9sTz/s1600/IMG_8445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgjhArFu3fY1lKvRmnn9it1_8gu_g4QJ6d6-m6ayYYWj5-YnY5QutlMpIuom1RsFcZvFGeet0KYOmAbzIMzS6KksDkf3w6ddBbE_DGSqlFSkldmvfK6ufeThXIsE5WQI-TUa2F35_N9sTz/s400/IMG_8445.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/10/light-jacket-burda-9487.html" target="_blank">jacket</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDIKOb_TL-9NwclhpBJunicm-fvO6rFp4wGsur2lqj4Inu-n_hI7wpOuPjbd-tFJzfnMKZximrthB6As9n1lBwVmDtNK7nj3mU0gYqNXRh_xahKfNv2LThxxYHIA1YKAtv8ToNgZ3KH7K/s1600/IMG_8724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDIKOb_TL-9NwclhpBJunicm-fvO6rFp4wGsur2lqj4Inu-n_hI7wpOuPjbd-tFJzfnMKZximrthB6As9n1lBwVmDtNK7nj3mU0gYqNXRh_xahKfNv2LThxxYHIA1YKAtv8ToNgZ3KH7K/s400/IMG_8724.JPG" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/10/project-winter-coat-finished-it.html" target="_blank">winter coat</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnlU93UxY7ughV51MgcgfAbDeCSDD0Pfiwpxq4HMVbVRiO6lLtrlJAoah-s1dTev_eFjI5_ePbNLtIKEkWK68g0zmU7rUie3281-iaeDZdZQKhsvCLI2V78jhzYaeUDrCwDwKp127FBBoa/s1600/IMG_9218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnlU93UxY7ughV51MgcgfAbDeCSDD0Pfiwpxq4HMVbVRiO6lLtrlJAoah-s1dTev_eFjI5_ePbNLtIKEkWK68g0zmU7rUie3281-iaeDZdZQKhsvCLI2V78jhzYaeUDrCwDwKp127FBBoa/s400/IMG_9218.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/12/duffle-coat.html" target="_blank">duffle coat</a></span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">these were all my biggest projects. there is so much more that i made and loved in 2012, but going through and finding all the posts and links is a real pain in the buns (mega props to all you who did bother!) and i have real-time sewing to get to!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">my only disappointment for the year was my inability to get all my projects onto the blog. i tried to count the number of things i made, but quit when i hit 45. i typically finish at least one item a week. problem is, my blogging (and picture taking) gets behind my sewing, then i lose interest in writing about it or plum forgot what amazing tidbit i wanted to share to begin with. i do try to make my posts worth your time reading, and i really appreciate the feedback. here's to another great year of sewing!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">p.s. tomorrow is the last day to vote in the <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=170" target="_blank">pattern review sewing for children contest</a>. thanks for all you who voted for me!</span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-91779445211157325342013-01-04T13:11:00.000-05:002013-01-04T13:11:12.030-05:00polka dots<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i made this dress quite a while ago but it never made it to ye olde blog. mostly because i wasn't that excited about it. i used <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6503-products-16285.php?page_id=108" target="_blank">mccalls 6503</a>. now, i really, <i>really</i> loved this pattern. the minute i saw it i knew i wanted to make it. then it was always sold out at the fabric store (i'm too lazy and stingy to order directly). i think my mom 1600 miles away in kansas ended up buying it and sending it to me because i just couldn't get my hands on it here. then, i had this super cute drape-y rayon polka dot material i <i>just knew</i> would be a perfect match.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i even added piping to the waistband!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhLUkqXmIGpPxx542nNW15R8ypDaZUajEMsmTZvqrP7N3s2W_izM5gwx-Pp5Afws7SdoasJAggEuHk5wWnT7gHIp3qFGunhvnBxTWQpXpxvvLpw8WetY8ayY1pm0z0Pz3ItCWLNikfCt1/s1600/IMG_9209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhLUkqXmIGpPxx542nNW15R8ypDaZUajEMsmTZvqrP7N3s2W_izM5gwx-Pp5Afws7SdoasJAggEuHk5wWnT7gHIp3qFGunhvnBxTWQpXpxvvLpw8WetY8ayY1pm0z0Pz3ItCWLNikfCt1/s400/IMG_9209.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i did a narrow straight ruffle instead of the<br />circle ruffle thing as on the pattern.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">then, i had all the pieces months before i had a chance to make it. finally when i did, i just didn't like it all that much. the fit was acceptable (i had even done a muslin!) but it just didn't do anything for me. this style of bodice left my top half a bit err... deflated looking. then the polka dot thing happening just looked a little too retro for my tastes. don't get me wrong, i love this style. but it really illustrated to me the difference between <i>what i like to look at</i>, and <i>what i like to wear</i>. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the skirt was a little on the long side, so that wasn't helping either. i wore it once (and even heard whispers of admiration behind me: <i>did you see her dress? so cute!</i>). in the end, i still loved the fabric, just not as this dress. it wasn't me. so i took it apart. I'M SORRY. i know some of you just gasped in horror, but it was the right thing to do. i shortened the skirt and added a simple waistband with a double hook closure. hey, it even has pockets!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">made that knit top months ago.<br />never blogged it. sorry.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">believe you me, i love this as a skirt sooooo much more than as a dress. oddly enough, i've had trouble finding tops that match it. apparently i don't have many solid colored tops. working on remedying that. i've worn it once with a black cardigan and black tights, but that's so expected. i thought i'd try it out with some patterned tops in the privacy of the entire interwebs before wearing it out in public. yay or nay?</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i'm currently on the hunt for a nice lightweight emerald green or fuchsia/magenta or teal knit to make a renfrew to pair with it. apparently those pantone people just named emerald green "<a href="http://www.pantone.com/pages/index.aspx?pg=21055&from=hp" target="_blank">color of the year</a>" or some such nonsense (seriously. their declaring what the on-trend color is annoys me to no end). but maybe it's a good thing, cuz it happens to be one of my favorite colors and i can never find fabric that color. maybe something will pop up now.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">oh, and lest all the work i put into the bodice go to waste, i've saved it to add a different bottom half for later. i think if i have a nice fat midriff and pleat the skirt (<a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/06/yes-this-is-bridesmaid-dress.html" target="_blank">like on this dress</a>) i can eliminate some of the excess fabric to make it a little more flattering. i'm thinking a lightweight denim skirt would be crazy awesome, but that's gonna have to wait for spring. i have too many cold weather makes to get to!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-54297833816607871832013-01-03T10:13:00.002-05:002013-01-03T10:13:35.076-05:00dixie DIY's hot cocoa sweater<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">new years day i started coming down with a cold. there is nothing like starting to feel sick that highlights to me my lack of <i>lazying around the house</i> clothes. i immediately remembered that <a href="http://dixiediy.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">dixie DIY</a> has a free (yes free!) <a href="http://dixiediy.blogspot.com/2012/10/hot-cocoa-sweater-free-pattern.html" target="_blank">hot cocoa sweater</a> pattern that would fit the bill. i had to run to the fabric store to pick up a couple $1 mccalls patterns (namely a button down shirt for the hubs. wooo! look at me all growed up and being unselfish!) so i browsed the red tag table to see if i could score a nice knit. and what do you know, this small floral print caught my eye. it's 100% rayon knit. i typically associate rayon knits with lighter-weight drape-y stuff, but this one was nice and stable. for $5/yd i couldn't pass it up.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">yesterday i traced off the pattern, then spent some time in the evening to sew it up. i thought the floral print might be a little too busy or young looking, but i don't really care. i just wanted a cozy top. i happened to have this grey knit leftover from <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/12/duffle-coat.html" target="_blank">anastasia's coat</a> and there was just enough to cut the cuffs and neck binding. it helps to break up the floral i think. then i thought, hey why not add that little triangle patch you see on sweatshirts? i really have no idea what it's there for, but the more i sew the more i notice the truly random details on rtw. so why the heck not? i cut a triangle patch and zig zagged the edges down before constructing the top.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this could not have been an easier top to make! the raglan sleeve is wicked fast to put together. dixie offered this pattern in one size, which just happened to be my size, so the only changes i made were lengthening it by 1", then adding 1/2" at the hem so i could turn a 3/4" hem instead of the drafted 1/4". i have monkey arms so i made my cuff 4" so the sleeves would be long enough. i prefer a wide cuff so this worked out just fine. by the way, all the seams have a 1/4" SA. i love her for that! so much easier to sew and a fabric saver to boot.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">hi-low hem! look at me being all trendy.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i have a few leftover projects unblogged from 2012, my 2012 favorite makes, what i want to accomplish this year... i'll get to all of that, it's just really nice for once to blog a fresh off the serger project. i'm so glad i have this top to lounge in today. not only am i nursing a cold but it's currently 10 F outside. that would be -12 C for you metric folks. brrrrrrrr!!!!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-74398370893358279122013-01-02T08:52:00.000-05:002013-01-02T08:52:31.693-05:00pattern review: sewing for children contest<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">today starts the voting for the <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=170" target="_blank">pattern review "sewing for children" contest</a>. this is the first time i've been put together enough to submit a project, so i'm pretty pleased with myself. there are quite a few nice entries, so if you are a pattern review member... go vote for your favorites! i feel awkward asking anyone to vote for me, but if you feel so moved, my entry is the <a href="http://notesfromamadhousewife.blogspot.com/2012/12/duffle-coat.html" target="_blank">burda duffle coat</a> i made for my daughter.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">she still loves her coat, it hasn't fallen apart, and it made it through several days of sledding in the backyard (we got a solid foot of snow over break)! that in and of itself is a win in my book.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-78816198969394787442012-12-20T11:38:00.002-05:002012-12-20T18:26:04.595-05:00duffle coat<div style="text-align: left;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">you know when you get about 7/8ths of the way through a project and you can see the finish line... </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">but</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">it</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">just</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">feels</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">like</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">you're</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">never</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">gonna</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">finish</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">yeah, that's how i felt with this coat. for some reason it felt like it was dragging on forever, even though i only spent a week and a half from cutting to finishing. impatient much? lately i feel like i'm in some sort of weird time warp and i can't accomplish anything. of course that may be because the sun goes down at 3:30 in the afternoon (okay, 4:30. but <i>still</i>) and the dark makes me move at half speed.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">but, enough about that.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">LOOK! I MADE ANOTHER COAT!!!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i was hoping that everyone's coats would make it through this winter but alas, it was not to be. a quick peek at prices online and it seemed like anything in the $30-ish range was a puffer coat. which the kids have been wearing the past several years, so i was hoping for something a little less... uh, puffer. then <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/girls-duffle-coat-102011" target="_blank">this pattern</a> popped up on burda and a quick math check told me i could make her a nice coat for about the same price. i like this pattern because it's casual but still polished looking. plus it's not really tailored so i didn't have to worry too much about a perfect fit or, you know, tailoring.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i picked up this coating fabric for $10/yd at joanns (50% off the regular price of $19.99/yd), so i felt like it was a good deal. it looks like wool, but it's a poly/rayon/spandex blend. not sure what the spandex is in there for, it isn't stretchy at all. as much as i prefer wool, i wasn't sure that an everyday coat for an 8 year old needed to be the real deal. hopefully this will be quality enough that it won't pill too badly. then i picked up some flannel backed satin as lining, which also happened to be on sale. go me!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">blurry pic—only one i got of the back. oops.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i didn't make many changes to this pattern, only a few that i can think of:</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the exterior pockets were single welt pockets, that i switched to <i>inset</i> welt pockets. on a regular single welt pocket, the welt is slip stitched to the outside and i felt like that wouldn't hold up very well for such a heavily-used pocket. the inset welt is made essentially like a double welt pocket, only with one fat welt instead of two skinny ones. overall, it feels more sturdy.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the other change i made was to the hood lining. the entire inside hood was supposed to be cut from lining material, but i changed the pattern pieces to made a faced edge. i just thought i would look nicer that way. you can kinda see what i'm talking about in the first picture.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">and i changed the button styling. initially i planned to do the toggle buttons, per the pattern, but i couldn't find the number i needed in the size i wanted or with the cording the right color or thickness... it was getting complicated and i didn't want to bother with ordering anything. so i picked up some large buttons and thought maybe i could just work out a loop closure instead. i made loops from bias strips of the coating fabric (the same as how you would make spaghetti straps) and basted them to the front, then cut squares of fabric (cut on the bias </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">to prevent fraying</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> then backed with fusible) and topstitched them to cover the ends of the loops.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i am sooooo happy i couldn't find the toggle buttons i wanted because i really love how this came out. i think the leather buttons stand out nicely and dress it up a bit.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">overall this is a really nice coat pattern; i love the styling and all the great details. but, a pattern review wouldn't be complete without a list of complaints, so here goes. my biggest peeve is the zipper insertion. the zip tape is simply top stitched to the front band of the coat instead of being recessed into the seam of the band. i hadn't noticed this on the pattern illustration because their zip matches the shell fabric so well. if i had to do it all over, i would add a little width to the left front piece to properly secure the zip inside the seam.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the other thing that puzzled me was the lining cuff, or windcatcher. i muddled through the directions and figured out how to construct it all, but once the shell and lining were attached at the sleeve hem, the cuff was recessed slightly from the hem. the pictures make it look like it should be sticking out or at least even with the sleeve hem. it's not a big deal, but the pattern doesn't really specify whether to add a SA to the rectangular pieces it says to draft (i did add it) and instead of marking the line on the sleeve where to attach the cuff it just has a point to measure to. which is fine, but i think the measurement was supposed to be taken from the bottom of the sleeve lining piece, not the hemline, which is how i read it. had i stopped to do a little math before stitching it all together i probably would have caught this. at any rate, these are just a couple things to keep in mind. this pattern has a boy's version (longer with patch pockets) which i'd like to sew up for my son next winter so i may have a chance to right these wrongs!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the exterior pockets are pretty small so i<br />added a patch pocket to the inside.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">all told, this coat is a winner. anastasia loves it and had to convince her friends at school that her mom made it. awww... they think i'm cool!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">and as soon as i figure out how, i'm going to enter this project in the december pattern review contest, <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/contestreport.pl" target="_blank">sewing for children</a>. wish me luck!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">UPDATE: coat is entered (i think), voting begins jan 2 for PR members. wooo!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-41310415995227955262012-12-11T15:03:00.002-05:002012-12-11T15:03:57.843-05:00burda style mini pleated skirt<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i made up a quick skirt for my daughter, anastasia, using a pattern from <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/mini-pleated-skirt-082011" target="_blank">burdastyle.com</a>. love or hate the .pdf pattern downloads, the taping and tracing, etc, they have been absolutely hitting it out of the park with their <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns?for=3" target="_blank">kids patterns</a>. i defy you to look at the kids section and <i>not</i> find something you wish came in adult sizes. the directions are, at best, questionable... but since there is a general lack of good kids patterns i don't mind puzzling it out for myself.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">from start to finish, this skirt took less than two hours. i used a navy ponte knit from joanns and it only used up about half a yard, plus some lining for the pockets. i stayed true to the design but changed the waistband slightly and eliminated the side zip. my daughter is quite thin and the finished waist measurement for a US sz 7 (she's 8) was equal to her hip measurement. since i used a knit, i figured the zip was unnecessary. i cut the waistband as one piece and so the finished width would be 1 1/2". the pattern has a 1" shaped waistband cut in 4 pieces (front, back, inside front, inside back). all the seaming caused a lot of unnecessary bulk so i ripped it out and cut the simplified one piece waistband, then later inserted elastic.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">navy is really hard to photograph!</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ponte knit can get a little bulky since it is thick and doesn't really press flat. to keep the waistband nice and neat i sewed the waistband piece into a circle (leaving a little opening to insert elastic later), attached it to the front of the skirt then folded it to the inside then stitched in the ditch to catch the inside of the waistband. ordinarily i would have folded up the inside seam allowance, but this time i just left it flat to keep the bulk down.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">incidentally, if you ever have trouble "stitching in the ditch" i sometimes pull out my invisible hem presser foot and adjust the guide to line up directly with my needle. the little guide piece sits inside the seam and keeps it all in line as you sew. after, i added some elastic then slip stitched the opening closed.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">stitch in the ditch with the blind hem foot</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">as writ, this skirt is <i>really, really, really</i> short. half the reason i bother making skirts and dresses for my girls is because i hate the itty bitty minis found in RTW for kids her age. she's thin, so she has to size down her skirts making them even shorter... this pattern has a longer version, but i felt that one was too long. i compromised by adding 2" in length to the shorter skirt. ah... just right! it's still shorter than pretty much any other skirt she owns, but i intended it to be worn with thick tights or leggings. i finished off the skirt with a machined blind hem.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">she loves this skirt a lot and i fully intend to make at least one more, maybe in a brighter color. i do wish the fabric had more body, i feel it hangs a little limp. the pattern suggests a sweatshirt-type knit, but i think a woven would be really nice too. twill, denim, or even corduroy.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">on another topic, i was bumming around pattern review and decided to check out what the december contest was going to be. turns out, it's kidswear. i'm in the middle of making anastasia a winter coat (burdastyle.com <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/girls-duffle-coat-102011" target="_blank">duffle coat</a>) so i signed up! i'm super loving how the coat is turning out and hope finish it up soon!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span></div>
lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8679465491844920579.post-37655020589928422772012-12-03T22:39:00.001-05:002012-12-03T22:39:09.667-05:00mad for plaid<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i definitely struggled with this dress more than i thought i would, but it all worked out in the end. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i chose <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5927-products-10409.php?page_id=108&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">mccalls 5927</a> because of the simple lines in the bodice and plain but not too plain skirt. let's face it—i'm a sucker for pleats and pockets. i mentioned before that i'm trying to work out a fitted bodice pattern or sloper that i can have on hand. after a few adjustments i think i've come pretty close with this one. the pattern came with several different bodice pieces based on bust size. i thought this would be super helpful in getting to my target shape a little faster. unfortunately, they treat both A and B cup sizes as one. <i>not</i> so helpful. past experience has shown me that i need a 1 1/2" dart intake. this bodice has a 2 1/2" intake so i was able to immediately spot and adjust this.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i had just read through the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1354128579&sr=1-1&keywords=fit+for+real+people" target="_blank">palmer/pletch "fit for real people"</a> and one very good point of advice they give is to pick your bodice size based on your upper bust measurement, then adjust as necessary to fit your waist. in retrospect, i should have been able to figure this out myself. i quite often stared and stared at those bodice cutting lines because my bust lands me a much smaller size than my waist. then, even though i'm 5'8", i usually need to do a petite adjustment (taken out above the bust) then add the removed length back in under the bust. then for your lower half you should pick a size based on your hip measurement and adjust the waist to fit. totally obvious, but still a lightbulb moment for me.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i love my plaid fabric, and a darted bodice is really nice for not disrupting the pattern as much as a princess seamed bodice would. however, if you're working with a stripe or plaid, the waist dart can make the lines go all jagged in a soul-crushing sort of way. OCD much? guilty. but not to despair... there is a super easy way to fix this.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">draw a line through the middle of your dart. then, pivot the dart as necessary to make the center line run parallel to CF. now when you stitch your dart, the plaid/checks/stripes will match up and chevron at the dart seam. genius, i know. now, if your skirt has a match point that is supposed to line up with the dart (pleats or front darts), keep in mind you'll have to adjust that as well.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgXlbzM99MQwLV9tbo5qA0z4ZIk9axg_GpV3wnAXW8PoYise7wGXUKA5tjbXn_zIEPfQKxpOxUxA-2e9JklSZu4hX751HQDMMu7N-MsvdzQXySO9C-R0Wxx9m0Ty6d-9wBEeUnMQluB9Ru/s1600/IMG_9125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgXlbzM99MQwLV9tbo5qA0z4ZIk9axg_GpV3wnAXW8PoYise7wGXUKA5tjbXn_zIEPfQKxpOxUxA-2e9JklSZu4hX751HQDMMu7N-MsvdzQXySO9C-R0Wxx9m0Ty6d-9wBEeUnMQluB9Ru/s400/IMG_9125.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">on the left: original dart placement<br />on the right: dart pivoted so the center is parallel to CF</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">because i was using this squishy, comfy, cozy flannel, i chose to leave the bodice unlined. which is ironic because i usually end up adding linings to dresses and then griping about the fact that the pattern doesn't include lining instructions. if you've never lined a dress before and/or fear the very idea of lining a dress, rest assuraed. this pattern has directions for a FULL lining. even the sleeves. which seems kinda weird, but there you have it. this flannel has a sort of natural stretch and it's quite thick. all in all, it feels really nice against my skin and has enough movement to be super comfortable. the only reason why i lined the skirt was so i could wear tights. this is obviously a winter dress and tights are a must. i used a bemberg rayon and it's perfectly slidable. no crazy ride ups!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">since i didn't line the bodice i drafted a facing. i know some people avoid facings like the plague but i happen think they're great for a clean neckline finish. since this fabric has a tendency to stretch funny and get all bent out of shape (it has a twill weave) it also helps to stabilize the neckline and keep it in check.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the only place that really gave me nightmares was the zipper install. an invisible zip was not an option given the thickness of the fabric so i got a standard zip and had intended to do a standard zip install. so you're supposed to baste the opening closed, topstitch around the zipper, then remove the basting. so i basted, pinned the zip in then went to topstitch. but... see that high, narrow neckline? nope. can't get it through a sewing machine when everything is closed up. i tried to go in from the skirt side, but that was so awful and wonky i quit after a couple inches. as usual, i made this far more complicated than necessary, and ended up going for a lapped zip.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i had only done a lapped zip once before and it seemed really hard and didn't work out. i think i did the zip three times only to eventually rip it out and hand pick it months later. so i never tried it again. but for this dress, a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">lapped zip was the only remaining option. i ripped out all the stitching i had attempted, <i>un</i>-basted the seam, added some fusible to stabilize the edges, and lapped that zip. and it went in perfect with my first try. go figure.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i don't often do a narrow skirt but thought it would be a nice departure from my more pouffy gathered dresses. the skirt is slightly off in fit, i could use another inch of ease in the backside. but who's counting? i already let out the side and back seams as much as i possibly could. rookie mistake... i didn't check the pattern's finished hip measurement. oops. i think i've determined though, that my hips aren't that wide, just le booty. things you don't learn from making gathered skirts, huh.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">i think i need to raise the back neckline<br />and/or add a back neck dart to fix the gaping.<br />that would be my "not impressed" face</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">so there's my long-winded final analysis of this dress. my only real gripe is that for this large scale plaid i should have gone with a pattern without a waist seam; unless i'm wearing a belt it just looks funny. that and i could totally stand narrowing the sleeves a touch, they're slightly boxy but... next time, right?</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>—lisa g.</i></span>lisa g.http://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.com16